Making an accurate replacement for a missing Bowman Badge
Quite a few of my engines came to me as semi-wrecks with lots of cosmetic damage. Invariably the nice Bowman badge/decal/logo, whatever you want to call it, was missing.

Badge restoration became a hot topic of conversation with the inimitable IndianaRog, and after we'd both had a go a restoring scans in Photoshop, we decided that the restored scan of his M135's the best one - I post it here for general use, but if you want a high-res photoshop version, contact me and you can ask Roger yourself.

GoldBowman


Updated Method, April 2006
This is a revised method for making a fake Bowman badge. The "paint" method described in the paragraph below works perfectly fine, but this new method is quicker and gives more consisyently good results. Here's what to do:

  • Print out the above scan on TRANSPARENT water slide transfer paper
  • Seal the transfer with a few coats of clear acrilyc lacquer
  • Apply the transfer to a background of matte gold paper, easily found in your local craft shop
  • Dry thoroughly, preferably in something like a flower press, to prevent curling
  • Cut to shape, and stick to the base with a smooth-drying glue (I use copydex, a latex-based glue)
  • Let dry, and apply a couple of coats of acrylic lacquer to the entire base
Works a treat!


"Old" method (still works)
You will need: 
-Slide transfer paper (better stationary shops, or online) 
-White paint   
-Varnish   
-Paintbrushes   
-Card       

The first step is to do a colour printout onto the transfer paper, at the highest resolution your printer supports. I use a distinctly aging Epson 740, and the results are fine:  
dprint
Once you have a satisfactory print, carefully cut out a decal. Mark out and cut out a slightly smaller circle on a piece of card. You will use this to make the white background (or gold if you prefer) for your slide transfer, which is transparent:           
dmarkout
Place the card cutout where the badge is going to be. It helps to stick it to the plate with some sort of mildly adhesive barrier that will prevent the paint from running under the cutout; I use vaseline (petroleum jelly).           

Apply paint (I use humbrol enamel). While that dries, apply a coat of varnish to your decal printout. If you don't, the print will run right of the film when you soak it, as I found out at my cost ;-)
dpaintandvarnish
When the paint and varnish have dried (overnight, to be sure), remove the card and clean off

dapply




the vaseline with white spirit. With the badge neatlyt out, you should now have something like this

Now soak your badge in some water for about a minute, and slide it gently off the backing paper. Lightly wet the place where you're going to put it, and slide it into position so that it completely overlaps the white. GENTLY work any bubbles out from the centre, and let dry for at least a day:
dfinish

Hey presto. As always, your mileage may vary and very much depends on time and preparation. This method has actually fooled an expert!
To finish things off, it might not be a bad idea to varnish the baseplate and decal, just for protection.

PLEASE REMEMBER THAT:
A) It would be very naughty to try and pass this off as an original and
B) If your base has parts of the original badge left, preserve! Don't mess with!

Have fun!